What is jacquard? How to distinguish between jacquard fabric and small jacquard fabric?

Jacquard

　　 is a concave-convex pattern composed of interlaced warp and weft.

　　 As early as the ancient Silk Road, Chinese silk was famous in the world by means of jacquard weaving. The jacquard process method originated from the original waist machine picking. Jacquard patterns have been found in the fabrics unearthed in the Shang Dynasty. Most of the jacquard weave patterns in this period were linear diamond patterns, ribs, "cup patterns" and Variations of the geometric shapes of the straight lines of these patterns.

　　 In the Qin and Han Dynasties, the silk jacquard fabric pattern was based on the geometric pattern of the pre-Qin period, and the small flower pattern of birds and beasts, cloud gas and a small number of plants was added. In the Sui and Tang dynasties, lotus flowers, curly grass, sketch flowers and other shapes were full, and the round patterns of large Hui plants suddenly appeared on silk jacquard fabrics. The plant patterns showed rich and rich style characteristics. By the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, silk jacquard fabric patterns Naturally smooth and delicate.

　　What is jacquard? How to distinguish between jacquard fabric and small jacquard fabric?

Ming and Song Yingxing's "Tiangong Kaiwu·Jingshu": "Weaving Huawen must use Jia, lake outlets, and effluent water as dry threads, then let it be carried forward without worrying about disconnection. Those from other provinces barely jacquard and scribble. "

In the modern era, with the development of modern weaving technology, large-scale electronic jacquard machines appeared. The jacquard weaving technology has developed rapidly. The jacquard pattern has also shown a variety of expressions. The artistic expression of jacquard weaving has also been unprecedented. Promotion and development.

　　 Jacquard and small jacquard

　　 Jacquard

　　 Jacquard is a large-scale pattern woven by a jacquard machine. The number of warp yarns in a fully-structured jacquard can be up to thousands. Jacquard is mostly based on one kind of organization, while another kind of organization shows patterns, such as plain weave and satin weave. Sometimes warp and weft yarns of different colors can also be used to make the fabric present a large colored pattern. It can also be matched with different fiber types, yarn counts and different warp and weft densities to make various styles of jacquard fabrics. The application of jacquard tissue is also very extensive, often used in bedding, curtains, blankets and other textiles.

　　What is jacquard? How to distinguish between jacquard fabric and small jacquard fabric?

△Jacquard fabric

The jacquard loom controls the up and down movement of the warp yarns through the pattern needles. Generally, the practical pattern needle of the 1400 jacquard machine is 1480 needles, which means that there are 1480 kinds of warp movement laws that can be controlled, which greatly increases Flower-shaped area.

　　 Jacquard

　　Small jacquard is a structure that uses two or more kinds of tissue changes to form a pattern on the surface of the fabric. It is called small jacquard. Small jacquards are generally organized in plain weave. Small jacquard fabrics are often used in high-end bedding and curtains because they have a finer and more delicate pattern than large jacquard fabrics.

　　What is jacquard? How to distinguish between jacquard fabric and small jacquard fabric?

The small jacquard loom uses a multi-arm to control the lifting of the heald frame. The movement of the warp yarns is determined by the lifting of the blade in the multi-arm to the heald frame. The general multi-arm can only control 16 heald frames, that is, only The movement law of 16 kinds of warp can be controlled. The pattern weaved is relatively small. If we want to weave a larger pattern, it can only be achieved by enlarging the loops of threading and heald. The dobby of imported small jacquard loom can control up to 24 heald frames. But this is rare, usually 16 and 20 tablets.

　　 Summing up the difference

　　 The size of the jacquard pattern cycle is mainly the difference of the loom. Small jacquard fabrics can generally be produced by dobby looms. Large jacquard fabrics must be produced on the jacquard loom.

　　 Jacquard fabric is a weaving loop that can reach hundreds of warp yarns, which need to be woven with jacquard machine. The small jacquard is a cotton fabric of small flower weave woven by a multi-arm loom, or a small pattern fabric, a multi-arm jacquard fabric.

　　 Identification method

　　 1 Type of opening mechanism:

　　Electronic dobby: Weaving small jacquard fabrics, which are generally energized by electromagnetic iron to receive industrial computer commands to control the movement of the brown frame.

　　Electronic jacquard faucet: weaving jacquard fabrics, the electronic pattern needle receives the instructions of the industrial computer to control the movement of each thread. The heald frames of a general dobby loom are between 16 and 20 pieces, and the most common jacquard faucet is 2640 stitches.

　　 2 Wear a heald head:

Multi-arm draw-in, the principle of draw-in in the fabric structure: warp yarns with the same ups and downs interweaving rules are generally inserted into the same page heald, or they can be inserted into different healds, and warp yarns with different interweaving rules must be worn in different healds. Page. At least one draw-through loop is drawn in the draw-in drawing.

　　Electronic jacquard baotou is baotou from left to right. The above is the basic situation in the production process of large and small jacquard to help understand.

　　3 Jacquard fabric identification method:

　　 1. Judge the warp and weft of the fabric;

　　 Second, find a complete weft cycle;

　　 3. Find out how many warp yarns with different movements in a complete cycle;

　　 Fourth, under normal circumstances, the number of warp yarns in different sports below 20 is small jacquard, and more than 20 is large jacquard and above is only a preliminary judgment.

In the actual process, it is necessary to analyze the company's equipment configuration. For example, a company's multi-arm weaving is equipped with a maximum of 16 heald frames. Then weaving fabrics with different numbers of warp yarns must be woven using large jacquard weaving. It is necessary to consider the heald density of each heald, because too much heald density of each heald leads to problems such as poor life. For example, the preliminary judgment uses 20 different motion warp yarns. The company is equipped with a 20-strand heald loom, but the density of each heald is too large due to the excessive fabric density. At this time, we should consider weaving on the jacquard weaving. . In actual work, whether it is design or sales, you can analyze and judge according to your actual situation.

　　 The difference between jacquard and other flowered fabrics

　　1 printed fabric

Jacquard refers to the textiles in which the yarns are interwoven according to different movement laws during the manufacturing process. The yarns are interwoven and woven, and the color changes of the yarns and the different movement laws of the yarns produce different color blocks. The appearance of the patterns is mixed, three-dimensional, and textured.

　　Printed fabric is a fabric printed with pigments or dyes, which is flat.

　　 2 Embroidered fabric

Embroidered fabrics are extremely artistic pattern fabrics, which have many variations in stitching, no directionality, and free use of color, while jacquard fabrics are developed by warp and weft yarns, the yarns are arranged regularly, and different color blocks are produced by different organizations. , The number of colors is limited.

　　 3 burnout fabric

Burnt-out fabrics are textiles that show the transparent patterns of cotton fibers in polyester-cotton core-spun yarns or polyester-cotton blended fabrics. They can also be rotten with acid pulps on fabrics made of silk and rayon Go to rayon to show a thin pattern.